Abstract
Small-scale physical and numerical experiments were conducted to investigate the local concentration of
waves (monochromatic and group) due to abrupt change of nearshore bathymetry in alongshore
direction. Wave run-up motions along the shoreline were measured using an image analysis technique to
compare localized concentration of wave energy, when waves propagate a over bathymetry composing
rhythmic patterns of mild/steep slope bottom configurations. Measured alongshore variation of maximum
wave run-up heights showed significant peak near the boundary, which has sudden alongshore change of
depth, both under monochromatic and group wave trains. This phenomenon is found to be due to
interaction of waves with neashore currents, which is further enhanced by excitation of long wave
components by breaking of group waves. Furthermore, this paper discusses results of preliminary
experiments carried out to test the effectiveness of several shore protection structure layouts in mitigating
such wave concentrations. Numerical simulations were performed by using a model developed based on
Nwogu (1993) Boussinesq-type equations; coupled with a transport equation to model energy dissipation
due to wave breaking.
| Original language | English |
|---|---|
| Pages (from-to) | 1-20 |
| Number of pages | 20 |
| Journal | Coastal Engineering Journal |
| Volume | 53 |
| Publication status | Published - Dec 2011 |